If you love unspoiled nature, adventure and unique destinations, the Shala River (Lumi i Shales) in Albania is calling your name. Tucked away between dramatic mountain peaks, this hidden gem offers crystal-clear waters, stunning gorges and a tropical vibe that feels straight out of Thailand. In this article, we’ll take you along on our journey to the Shala River and share all the tips you need for an unforgettable experience.
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- Why you should visit the Shala River in Albania
- Getting to Lumi i Shales: everything you need to know
- Arriving at the Shala River: what you need to know
- The magic of spending the night at the Shala River
- Practical tips for visiting the Shala River
- Visiting the Shala River with kids: Is Lumi i Shales child-friendly?
- Where to stay at the Shala River: our recommendation
- Useful information for your trip to Lumi i Shales
- Why you should add the Shala River to your Albania trip
Why you should visit the Shala River in Albania
Reaching the Shala River feels like discovering a hidden paradise. The turquoise waters wind through a dramatic canyon, surrounded by towering mountains. While day-trippers arrive in waves, the true magic of the Shala River reveals itself after 3 PM and in the quiet hours of the next morning, until around 11 AM. We highly recommend staying at least one night to fully experience the peace and exclusivity of this breathtaking place.
What makes the Shala River so unique?
- Pure nature: crystal-clear water, breathtaking gorges and a dramatic landscape that feels like Thailand.
- Authentic experience: evenings by the river, with crackling campfires and slow moments of relaxation, create an atmosphere you won’t find anywhere else.
- Far from the crowds: by staying overnight, you skip the rush of day-trippers and experience the quiet, remote feeling of this secluded spot.
Getting to Lumi i Shales: everything you need to know
Our journey began with a drive to Koman, the starting point for the famous boat trip to the Shala River. The road to Koman has a bit of a reputation, and you’ll find plenty of horror stories online about its condition. But don’t let that scare you off! With a regular car, the route is totally doable as long as you take it slow and steer around the potholes. Want more tips? Read our full guide to driving in Albania.
We spent one night in Mjedë before continuing to Koman, so we could catch the first boat to the Shala River the next morning. Looking back, we would’ve been better off driving straight to Koman. There’s not much to see or do in Mjedë, and we still felt a bit rushed the next morning because of the time pressure.
We parked our car at Blini Parking, a private parking area that offers a shuttle service to the boat departure point. According to many reviews, it’s the safest place to leave your car. We even left our suitcases and other belongings there that we didn’t need at the Shala River.
We had contacted them in advance and agreed on a time, although it’s not really possible to make an official reservation. Still, it gave us peace of mind knowing things were arranged. When we arrived, there was no shuttle in sight, and we had to wait for a bit. We started to worry we might miss the 9:00 AM boat, but that turned out to be unnecessary. After a quick phone call, a small, slightly older van showed up and took us to the tunnel, the boat departure point. Only one family could go at a time, so other groups had to wait their turn.
Looking back, it fit perfectly with the relaxed Albanian way of traveling. No stress, everything works out in the end. And it did, because the boats ended up leaving later than scheduled anyway.
Note:
Do not park your car in the public parking lot just before the tunnel. According to reviews, break-ins have occurred there. Also, do not drive into the tunnel itself. Right after it is the harbor, and if you’re unlucky, you could get completely stuck.
The boat trip to the Shala River
Once we boarded the boat, the real adventure began. The journey through the Koman Valley is unforgettable. Steep mountains rise on both sides of the river, and the scenery feels like something straight out of Thailand.
Tip from us:
Despite the official departure time of 9:00 AM, our boat didn’t leave until around 10:00 AM—so all that stress was for nothing! Still, I wouldn’t count on that and recommend being on time at the harbor. On the way back, the boat did leave promptly at 8:00 AM. If you miss that one, you’ll have to wait for the next boat at 3:00 PM.
Arriving at the Shala River: what you need to know
After about an hour on the water, we arrived at the Shala River. At first, it was quite busy, but around 3 PM most day-trippers started heading back. That’s when the true magic of this place really kicks in. If you stay overnight, you’ll experience a unique atmosphere that settles over the canyon once the crowds are gone. We stayed at Guesthouse Zgiboza, a cozy, family-run place located a bit away from the busy area. It turned out to be a great choice. We enjoyed peaceful evenings by the campfire while our daughters happily tossed pebbles into the river.
Top things to do at the Shala River in Albania
- Campfire evenings by the river: local families light small campfires in the evening, creating a cozy setting where you can relax and connect with other guests and locals.
- Swimming in the Shala River: the water is pretty cold, but taking a refreshing dip is an absolute must. We recommend bringing an air mattress or inflatable rings. It’s great fun to float through the rapids.
- Explore the river by kayak: paddle along the Shala River and discover hidden spots along the shoreline. Keep in mind that the current can be quite strong at times, which makes paddling upstream a bit challenging. Luckily, it went just fine for us.
The magic of spending the night at the Shala River
Many people choose to stay at the Shala River for just a few hours, but we strongly recommend booking at least one night. We actually stayed for two nights, and it was absolutely worth it. The surroundings are stunning, but they truly come to life once the day-trippers leave. The peace, the campfires, and the starry sky make the overnight experience unforgettable. Plus, you get the chance to enjoy the Shala River early in the morning, when the sun rises and nature slowly wakes up.
Practical tips for visiting the Shala River
- Pack light: only bring the essentials, as the path to your accommodation is rocky and dragging a suitcase just isn’t practical. A good backpack is your best option.
- Book your boat trip in advance: while there are several boats departing daily, it can get busy during high season. Make sure to book early to secure your spot. You can usually do this through your accommodation, like we did with Guesthouse Zgiboza.
- Be patient: the boats don’t always follow a fixed schedule, so be prepared for some Albanian sense of time. Leaving later than planned seems to be more of a rule than an exception. Just relax, enjoy the view, and let go of any stress.
- Bring cash: card payments aren’t accepted here, but euros are generally accepted.
- Choose a safe place to park: we went with Blini Parking in Koman, a secure option with a convenient shuttle service. If you decide to park closer to the tunnel on the public lot, make sure not to leave any valuables in your car.
Visiting the Shala River with kids: Is Lumi i Shales child-friendly?
Our daughters, aged 5 and almost 2, absolutely loved the Shala River. Swimming in the cold, clear water and playing with pebbles along the riverbank kept them happily entertained. They also really enjoyed sitting by the campfire in the evenings. It was a cozy and fun way to end the day.
Overall, the Shala River is a safe place for kids, but as parents, it’s important to stay alert. The river has a strong current in some areas, and there are a few small bridges without child-friendly railings. Our youngest was very curious about those bridges. Our older daughter loved floating over the river’s gentle rapids on an air mattress and kayaking with us.
That said, there are no high chairs, baby beds or changing facilities at the Shala River, and hygiene is more basic compared to other places in Albania. Keep this in mind if you’re traveling with kids. A stroller is also not practical here. Because of this, we wouldn’t recommend visiting with a very young baby.
Where to stay at the Shala River: our recommendation
We stayed at Guesthouse Zgiboza, a cozy, family-run accommodation just outside the busier area. The peaceful evenings by the campfire and the friendly staff made it the perfect place for our stay. Be sure to book your accommodation well in advance, especially if you’re planning to visit during high season.
👉 Check availability at Guesthouse Zgiboza
Since there are only a few accommodations truly located on the Shala River, it’s smart to double-check where you book. Many places in Koman and even Shkodër show up on Booking.com, but they’re not actually by the river. To help you out, we’ve put together an overview of the best places either directly on the Shala River or just before it, including their reviews.
Best hotels and guesthouses on the Shala River
Guesthouse Zgiboza
⭑⭑⭑⭑ 9,1 on Booking.com
Peaceful location, evening campfires, friendly atmosphere
👉 Check availability
Bee Eco Guest House
⭑⭑⭑⭑ 9.0 on Booking.com
Very popular and quickly booked up. Nice staff. Located fairly up front by the river, so a bit busier with day trippers.
👉 Check availability
Villa’s Gio Shala River
⭑⭑⭑ 9,5 on Booking.com
Beautiful location with new, modern cabins.
👉 Check availability
Riverside Komani Lake
⭑⭑⭑⭑ 8,6 on Booking.com
Located before the main river area, so no day-trippers. A beautiful and peaceful spot in nature. From here, you can easily take a boat (for a fee) to the iconic part of the Shala River.
👉 Check availability
Ronis Place
⭑⭑⭑⭑ 7,0 on Booking.com
Lovely hotel with rooms that even have bathtubs on the balcony. Reviews are mixed, though.
👉 Check availability
Livadhi Guesthouse Komani Lake
(No reviews on Booking.com yet)
New guesthouse, so only a few reviews available.
👉 Check availability
Tip:
Book your stay well in advance, especially during high season. There are only a handful of accommodations and the best spots fill up quickly.
Useful information for your trip to Lumi i Shales
- Best time to visit: from May to October, when the weather is great and the water turns a beautiful shade of blue. During the winter months, the Shala River is not accessible.
- What to pack: besides the usual essentials for an overnight stay, make sure to bring swimwear, towels, sturdy water shoes, and warm clothes for the evening. Pack everything in durable, preferably waterproof backpacks.
- Child-friendliness: yes, definitely! For adventurous families, this is a fantastic, though quite basic, destination.
Why you should add the Shala River to your Albania trip
Our experience at the Shala River was truly unforgettable. The unique setting, the incredible landscape, and the chance to completely disconnect from the crowds make this a place you won’t easily forget. If you’re visiting Albania, the Shala River absolutely deserves a spot on your list. It’s no surprise that this destination is loved by travelers looking for something authentic and off the beaten path. Don’t miss the chance to experience this hidden gem for yourself!
